The Seven Rila Lakes

High above Sapareva Banya are the Rila Mountains, the same area where we stayed during our first four days in Bulgaria. But this Sunday my host family and I went much higher. We 4-wheeled up a rutted, rocky, sometimes muddy track that could hardly be called a road. Bouncing along on one of the steeper parts, we suddenly had to stop to adjust the ancient vehicle. First they jacked up the rear to tighten something around the rear axle, then they jacked up the front for another tightening and then it was back to the rear axle again. Repairing this vehicle must be a frequent occurrence since they always carry tools and a blanket to lie on while crawling under the vehicle.

Our rutted track apparently has been used to build and maintain a ski lift that we drove under several times. Finally we were up above 7,000 feet and it was time to hike. Soon we were at timberline where short, stunted trees give way to grasses and wildflowers. I thought that I was used to mountain hiking at this altitude but this trail was steeper than anything on Mt. Wrightson and I was breathing heavily.

The centerpiece of the Rila Mountains is the Seven Rila Lakes, one of the most famous tourist spots in Bulgaria. The Rilas are glacier carved and rugged with numerous moraine ridges and cirques. Here above 8,000 feet and approaching 9,000 the cirques contain many lakes, some only temporary for a few months of snow melt but others are permanent lakes, not overly large but crystal clear and cold. On this August day there are still a fair number of snow patches in areas protected from the sun. We are as far north as central Wyoming so some of this snow is year round and will not melt. As I hiked higher I saw and passed each of the famous seven lakes each at a different elevation. It was an absolutely gorgeous place and from the ridges I could see forever.

In such a remote mountain spot I would have expected lots of solitude. Instead I had lots of company. These mountains in August are popular with hikers, backpackers, and people just wanting to escape the heat of the lowlands. Because of the 4-wheel drive we only had a hike of a couple miles to reach the lakes but people with ordinary sedans had a walk of five miles or more and all uphill at high altitude. I was surprised to see not a few intrepid souls but rather hundreds of people all bringing lunch, packs, blankets, etc.

Our lunch was, you guessed it, tomato and cucumber salad with feta cheese on top. There was sausage something like overly large hotdogs cut into pieces. Salami and yellow cheese were finger food. And always there was bread. There is no Bulgarian meal without bread that I know of. Beer came along and of course rakia. Water bottles had been filled at springs along the way.

We finished our picnic at the second lowest of the Rila Lakes. The three men in the group felt the need for more rakia and/or a nap. The three women and I decided to hike up farther to see more of the lakes. It was a steep hike to the third lake and there two of the women decided to rest and enjoy the view and a cigarette. That left only Ralista and me to hike further. So now I was following a 23-year old woman who jogs for fun. Needless to say it was a quickly moving hike but I managed to keep up with a young woman almost a third of my age. It was great fun and the view was spectacular even with all the people. There were at more than 300 of us hikers and sightseers.

But even with our numbers we were not the only people on the mountain and, in fact, we were outnumbered by people who were on the mountain for another purpose. This weekend, plus the whole week, is the time for the annual gathering of the White Brotherhood. Another posting on this blog will give you more information on the brotherhood itself so I won’t duplicate it here but I will tell you what I saw.

Near the shore of the second Rila lake is a very large meadow. Through the years the brotherhood has constructed three concentric stone circles, the largest over 50 yards in diameter. At this site, picture if you will, more than 500 people, almost all dressed in all white and barefoot. In the center of the circle are five violins and a guitar, a half dozen singers and a leader to direct. Stretching out from the center are double lines of white-dressed people forming numerous spokes of a wheel. The circumference of the circle is again a double line of people. While singing and chanting are going on, the rest of the people alternate in slow ritualistic movements that is something between dancing and marching while at the same time doing many different arm motions. There is stretching arms out, putting them overhead, bringing them in in supplication, clapping, and other movement usually done while also dancing or walking. Those who know the words sing along. Everything is choreographed because there is the belief that the unity of movement increases the power force. The name of this singing and dancing is ‘paneurhythmy” a word created by the brotherhood.

To an outsider it all looks like something “New Age” but this has been going on for more than 80 years. It’s not technically a religion because followers are encouraged to follow their own religion whether Christian or other. It seems to be more of a belief in cosmic forces.

When I arrived these dances had been going on, off and on, since sunrise and would continue, off and on, until sunset with people dropping out and joining in as they felt like it. In the distance I could see small circles of participants at other lakes.

If I have peaked your interest, check out the next blog posting in a few days which will have more information on the White Brotherhood and hopefully some videos of this annual August happening.